The Rocky Start: Leaving Rat Cay’s Rolliest Anchorage
Rat Cay, nestled near Pigeon Cay, is infamous among sailors for its relentless rocking motion. “It went like this all day, all night, all morning,” my wife recalled, describing the tough sleep aboard due to the continuous rolling. The rough anchorage pushed us to seek smoother waters and a more comfortable stay.
Despite the discomfort, Rat Cay’s stunning location showcased the breathtaking turquoise waters and idyllic Bahamian scenery that keep sailors coming back year after year, even if the price and motion are a challenge.
Navigating the Narrow Racket Cut
Exiting Rat Cay meant heading through Racket Cut, a narrow channel with edges on both sides. We timed our passage to coincide with slack tide, helping to reduce the current’s impact. Even so, sailing against the current cut our speed by about a knot.
This short cut takes just about a nautical mile but requires sharp attention to navigation to avoid rocky edges. Once through Racket Cut, we faced the open Atlantic, where wind and waves tested our sailing skills.
Reefing Sails and Smoothing Out the Atlantic Ride
To make the crossing more comfortable, we reefed two sails on the main mast. Reefing reduced the boat’s oscillations, turning a bumpy ride into a manageable one. Even with a bit of hobby-horsing (the boat rocking front to back), the stabilized sails made the trip to Georgetown much more pleasant compared to the prior anchorage.
The sail ended with picturesque views of companion boats and calm, clear waters—the true call of boat life adventures.
Arrival in Georgetown: The Bahamas’ Boat City
Georgetown is one of the larger towns in the Exumas and is buzzing with boaters from all around. Upon arrival, it truly feels like a boat city with dozens of vessels anchored offshore, creating a vibrant maritime community.
We anchored on the quieter side of town, then took the dinghy across to explore everything from local bars offering bucket beers and free Wi-Fi to grocery stores stocking fresh produce. The town has many conveniences that sailors appreciate—DHL services for mail shipping (though notably without standard zip codes), liquor stores, and even a gas station nearby.
Provisioning and Budgeting: Shopping in Georgetown
Shopping in Georgetown comes with its own surprises and lessons:
- Eggs cost about $4 for a dozen, comparable to prices elsewhere in the Bahamas.
- Fresh vegetables like tomatoes and bell peppers might fetch premium prices, but quality is good.
- Local bars offer affordable bucket beers near the dinghy dock, making socializing and restocking drinks convenient.
- Beware of the Bahamian Value Added Tax (VAX) on food, which can increase costs unexpectedly.
We managed to stock up well enough for a month, focusing on cooking onboard to save money compared to dining out—where costs quickly add up.
Life Aboard: Managing Humidity and Comfort
One challenge in the Bahamas is managing humidity onboard. We’ve learned that running the air conditioning regularly helps reduce mold and moisture buildup.
We fixed the AC recently, cleared air bubbles from the pump system, and started using it once a week to keep the boat dry and comfortable—essential for preserving our living space and supplies in the humid tropics.
Exploring Georgetown’s Charming Boat-Friendly Side
Beyond provisioning, Georgetown offers lovely community spaces and beaches. We enjoyed walking through well-kept parks, observing the local lifestyle, and soaking in the Bahamian atmosphere.
While some beaches cater to the wealthy, the public access shores remain beautiful and accessible, perfect for couples seeking a peaceful getaway with a mix of adventure and relaxation.
Final Thoughts on Sailing Through the Exumas
Our journey from Rat Cay’s rocky anchorage to Georgetown’s vibrant boat city embodies the highs and lows of cruising life. It’s a blend of rough seas, stunning settings, practical challenges, and the joy of being part of a supportive boating community.
For couples dreaming of sailing the Caribbean, this trip offers a real taste of what to expect—patience, preparation, and a spirit of adventure.
Related Reads from ChrisDoesWhat.com
- Discover the Joys and Trials of Life on a Sailboat
- Sailing the Exumas: Island Life, Wildlife & Adventure
- How We Manage Humidity and Mold on Our Sailboat
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