The Bayliner 175 restoration is nearing the finish line, and today we addressed a critical piece of hardware: the deck cleats. If you’ve ever dealt with saltwater corrosion, you know how quickly it can turn standard hardware into a pitted, unsightly mess.
Our original cleats were severely corroded and needed a total replacement. We decided to pivot away from traditional metal in favor of a modern, budget-friendly alternative. Here is the technical breakdown of the installation and why we modified the hardware for maximum security.
The Investigation: Saltwater Corrosion vs. Teflon
The cleats we pulled off were covered in white oxidation—a classic result of saltwater exposure on low-grade cast metal. For the replacement, we went with black Teflon cleats sourced from Amazon.
- The Cost Benefit: High-quality replacement cleats with the exact factory hole spacing were running upwards of $50 each on marine sites. By switching to these Teflon units, we got a set for about $10—essential for a “budget boat” build.
- The Material Advantage: Unlike cast metal, these won’t rust, rock, or corrode. They are rated to handle significant stress, and for a boat this size, they are more than sufficient.
- The Layout Challenge: The original cleats used 2-inch hole spacing, while the new ones are 1 5/8-inch. To make these work, we had to “wallow out” (enlarge) the existing holes slightly to align the bolts. The footprint of the new cleats is large enough to cover the old marks, keeping the deck looking clean.
The Project: Reinforced Hardware Installation
While the cleats came with their own screws, we immediately flagged them as a potential point of failure. The included screws were short and thin—not something I want to trust with my boat’s security.
- The Bolt Upgrade: We went to Tractor Supply and picked up much longer, thicker stainless steel bolts.
- Nyloc Nuts: Instead of standard nuts, we used Teflon-lined lock nuts (Nylocs). These are designed to stay tight despite the constant vibration and movement of a boat.
- The “One-Man” Install: Installing deck hardware usually requires two people (one to hold the bolt and one to tighten the nut). However, because these bolts fit so snugly into the cleat housing, I was able to screw them down and tighten the nuts from inside the hull as a solo operation.
The Stress Test
Before calling the job done, I put my 230-lb weight against them to ensure there was no budge or flexing in the fiberglass. They held up perfectly. One potential downside to Teflon/Nylon cleats is that they can become brittle if left in the sun for years without a cover, but for the price and the look, they are a massive upgrade over the corroded originals.
The black hardware provides a sharp contrast against the white hull and matches the rub rail perfectly.
Final Thoughts
With the cleats installed, we’re officially ready to tie up at any dock. It’s another small step that makes the boat look and function like new.
Watch the full installation walkthrough here: Install of Boat Cleats
Don’t forget to check out our latest registered trademark gear! We have new hats and apparel featuring the “Chris Does What” and “Dining In With Danielle” logos. While I’m finishing the hardware, Danielle is releasing a new recipe every Wednesday—check them out at www.dininginwithdanielle.com.
Y’all please take care.