We’ve been tackling the interior aesthetics of the Bayliner 175 to cover up some of the “gnarly” modifications made by previous owners. One of the biggest eyesores was the oversized, rusted-out 6×9 car speakers that were crammed into the side panels.
Not only were the speakers trashed—the tweeters had literally rusted off—but the non-stainless screws had left rust stains all over the fiberglass. To fix this, we fabricated custom speaker plates to cover the holes and provide a mounting surface for our new marine audio. Here is the technical breakdown of how we achieved a textured, durable finish on these custom plates.
The Investigation: Recovering from a Resin Failure
Our goal was a smooth, high-gloss finish, but the project took a few turns.
- The Failure: We initially tried to paint the wood plates, but the grain lines were too prominent. I then tried to apply a resin coating to level it out, but the resin didn’t cure properly.
- The “Redneck” Pivot: To save the plates, we utilized a bit of leftover KiwiGrip. By rolling on a thin layer of the rubberized non-skid, we created a uniform texture that masked all the imperfections in the wood and the failed resin.
- The Final Coat: We topped the KiwiGrip with Metallic Gray Rust-Oleum and a heavy UV-resistant clear coat. The result is a professional, textured look that matches our deck and window frames perfectly.
The Project: Interior Hardware Restoration
While we had the paint out, we also addressed the window support bars.
- Support Bars: The original bars were scratched and faded black. We stripped them, sanded them down, and applied the same metallic gray and clear coat system we used on the window frames.
- The “Ball” Joints: I used a specialized taping technique Danielle showed me to mask off the ball joints, allowing for a clean paint line that doesn’t interfere with the hardware’s movement.
- The Gasket: We used a black rubber trim around the speaker plates to provide a clean transition between the custom plate and the boat’s fiberglass. It looks factory-original and helps dampen any vibration from the speakers.
The Logistics: Getting to Top Dead Center (TDC)
With the aesthetics nearly finished, we are moving back to the heavy mechanical work. The engine is the final hurdle before our first water test.
- Ignition Timing: Our mechanic (who we’ve discussed in previous posts) managed to lose our timing light. I’ve ordered a replacement so we can “stab” the distributor correctly.
- Finding TDC: I’ll be documenting how to find Top Dead Center on cylinder number one to ensure the distributor is indexed correctly. Proper timing is a “happy medium”—too much advance can burn a hole in a piston, while too much retard leads to sluggish performance.
- Cooling System: We also have to reinstall the circulation pump and belts. On the Bayliner 175, you actually have to partially disassemble a motor mount to get the belt on—a fun design quirk we’ll be showing you in the next episode.
Final Look and What’s Next
We are down to three major tasks: the engine timing, the circulation pump, and the bimin top. We’re skipping the seat cushions for now because we’re dying to get this thing on the water for a test run.
Watch the speaker plate transformation here: Custom Boat Speaker Plates Painted
As we get closer to our first “saltwater flush” adventure, check out the latest recipes over at www.dininginwithdanielle.com. Every Wednesday, she drops a new meal that helps keep me fueled for these long days in the boat yard.
Y’all please take care.
Universal Self Adhesive Rubber Weatherstrip https://amzn.to/2Hq86hW
