We are finally making some serious headway on the Bayliner Bowrider 175 restoration. After waiting months to get the boat back, we are officially in the “Dirty Work” phase of installing the new marine plywood floor.
Getting a floor to sit right in a boat isn’t just about screws and wood; it’s about structural chemistry. Here is our Problem -> Investigation -> Solution approach to getting the deck solid.
The Problem: Structural Integrity and Moisture
When you’re rebuilding a boat floor, you can’t use standard wood glue. If water gets in—and it will—wood glue will dissolve, and your floor will start to delaminate and rot all over again.
The Solution: Epoxy Resin and TotalBoat Systems
We are using the TotalBoat 5:1 Epoxy Resin System.
- Precision Mixing: The pump system TotalBoat provides makes it nearly impossible to mess up the ratio. One squeeze of resin to one squeeze of hardener, and you’re good to go.
- The “Glue” of the Sea: Once this stuff dries, it’s basically rock hard. I once got a spot of this resin on a nice shirt, and it’s still there—the only way to get it out is to cut a hole in the shirt!
- Slow Hardener: We use the slow hardener to give us about a 15-minute working window. That’s enough time to coat the boards and the stringers before the chemical reaction kicks in.
The Installation Process
1. Prepping the Stringers
I already fiberglassed the stringers, so they are ready for the deck. I liberally apply the mixed resin to the top of the stringers to create a waterproof, permanent bond between the wood and the fiberglass.
2. The Lip and the Drain
I installed a lip around the storage compartment using scrap marine wood.
- Drainage Logic: I left small gaps (cracks) in the corners of the storage lip. I want any water that gets on the floor to drain down into the bilge so the bilge pump can do its job. You don’t want water standing on your deck.
3. Precision Cutting with a Coffee Can
I had to cut out the hatch for the floor storage (which currently houses my “emergency propulsion system”—the paddle).
- Pro-Tip: I used a coffee can to template the corners. I tried freehanding it at first, but a coffee can gives you a perfect, professional radius every time.
- Blade Choice: I used a metal-cutting blade in my jigsaw rather than a wood blade. It’s a finer tooth, which takes longer but prevents the plywood from splintering.
The “Redneck Engineering” Gap Filler
Around the edges of the hull where the plywood meets the fiberglass, you’re always going to have small gaps. I took treated sawdust from the floor cuts, mixed it with resin to create a “goop” (thickened epoxy), and used that to fill the gaps. Once it dries, we can sand it smooth and fiberglass right over the top.
The Result
The floor is rock solid. No more falling into the hull! We still have to add the foam and do the final glassing, but the deck is officially situated.
Watch the full floor install here: Plywood Boat Floor Install EP #21
While I’m out here getting covered in resin and sawdust, Danielle is hard at work in the kitchen. Tonight she’s making a Garlic Chicken recipe that she’s been perfecting—check out dininginwithdanielle.com for the full walkthrough.
Tools:
Milwaukee drill: https://amzn.to/2yyMlbo
Ryobi Jig Saw: https://amzn.to/2D65SDU
DEWALT Orbit Sander: https://amzn.to/2PT5LOE
Supplies:
TotalBoat 5:1 Epoxy Resin Kits: https://amzn.to/2Sf5dnZ